About My Designs
My name is Ryan A. Miskin. I have been an avid car audio enthusiast for almost a decade now. Since the beginning, I have designed and built my own enclosures. Because of that, I have gained a ton of first hand experience with ported box design. Whether it's for a single 10" woofer or a pair of 18'" subs, I put a lot of work into my boxes to ensure they are accurately made and give a good blend of sound quality and spl.
The main reason I got into doing custom designs was the amount of pre-fab boxes being used by people I knew. Most of these boxes are too small and tuned too high for any woofer to sound good in. Sure, they'll give a good peak in output at 50hz, but the low-end will seriously suffer. And who wants their subs to fall on their face when trying to pump out a 30hz note? Not me. Because of this, I tune my standard box designs at 33hz and use a generous amount of port area to beef up the low-end response. Don't be fooled by those high tuned boxes with small ports; they're definitely not what you want if you actually enjoy listening to music of any kind.
After getting some good experience under my belt with my own boxes, I went out and offered my services to other people in an effort to give them something that a pre-fab box can't: solid output across the entire bandwidth that the sub will be playing. I have been designing custom, quality enclosures for other people for nearly 5 years now. I have had literally hundreds of customers and have had zero complaints. I thoroughly enjoy helping others with their audio needs, and I believe that it shows with how I treat my customers and the amount of effort I put into my boxes.
I design all of my boxes with the purpose of giving you a well-rounded box. I don't want you to have a one-note-wonder sort of thing that won't sound good with a wide variety of music. Tuning at 33hz area is where I like to stay at for my standard boxes. I've found that tuning in that area is what the average listener is going to want. It gives you good output without sacrificing low-end extension. If you want something different, feel free to go to the "Need a Custom Design?" tab with a custom box design request.
I follow the "common chamber" and "common port" philosophy, meaning one chamber for all of the subs and a single, large port. This has been proven to be more efficient (louder), and takes up less space than going with a chamber and port for every subwoofer. And with a common chamber, you can use about 10-15% less box volume per woofer, which cuts down on space as well. This can be the difference between being able to fit three or four subs, for instance.
Within the port itself, I will throw in a 45* piece in the corner(s) in order to keep the port width the same at the turn in the port. This helps facilitate smooth air flow, which makes for a slightly more efficient (louder) port. If you can't make the 45* cuts, don't worry. It isn't going to ruin the sound of your woofer(s). The 45's are there to simply aid the people who can make those cuts, in order to help them get the most out of the design.
Solid bracing is also important. With most pre-fab boxes, and even some custom boxes, you don't get any bracing. This is costing you output, because when the box flexes it absorbs some of the sound waves. You want the box to be as rigid as possible. Because of that, I brace the larger walls in my designs with either 2" wide strips of MDF or 1.5" wide wooden dowels which can be bought at Home Depot.
- I use only 3/4" MDF when designing my enclosures. You can use other 3/4" material, but MDF is the best compromise of price/performance, and is definitely recommended over particle board.
- Coarse thread drywall screws, 1-5/8" long. These can be found at Home Depot with the orange label on the box. The coarse threads grip MDF better than a normal wood screw, because MDF is not like normal wood. These screws have more holding power and better clamping ability to keep the joints tight while the glue is drying.
- Titebond II or some sort of sub-floor adhesive. You want something that is going to bond the wood together...normal glue just won't cut it!
- You get three, 3D, easy to read images sent to your PayPal address in the form of .png files for high quality and detail.
- A quick explanation of how everything fits together.
- A list containing every piece you'll need to cut, and the dimensions of those pieces.
- The ability to easily reach me in case you have any questions by simply replying to the e-mail I send you.
- Most importantly, the peace of mind that you have made a quality box that will sound great with any kind of music.
(This sample is not made to certain specifications)
||This could be called the floor plan as well. It gives you a bird's eye view of how everything will fit together, and also gives you dimensions for everything you'll need to cut.|
||Here you'll get an inside view of what the box will actually look like when it's finished. You still get all of the dimensions listed, so you don't have to go back and forth from the floor plan to the build-up plan when looking for dimensions.|
The Final Product:
||Here you'll see the overall look of the box that you're about to make. You can clearly see the dimensions that the box will be taking up, and you'll still have some other useful dimensions/notes as well.|
All box designs that are availble on this site correspond to the same, basic layout as shown below. These designs are only for Dual 10's, 12's, 15's, and Single 18" enclosures, and all enclosures have been tuned down to a modest 33Hz. If the pre-made designs do not suit your needs, then you should go here, where you can fill out the info for a custom box to be designed just for you.
- Dual 10" Enclosure: 2.25 ft3 @ 33Hz
- Dual 12" Enclosure: 4.0 ft3 @ 33Hz
- Dual 15" Enclosure: 7.0 ft3 @ 33Hz
- Single 18" Enclosure: 6.0 ft3 @ 33Hz
It is highly recommended that you follow these tips when building your box. Using the correct materials for your enclosure will make it sturdier, sound better, and most importantly, give it a clean, professional look.
- Use 3/4" MDF. It's the most affordable way to make a sturdy box.
- Use Titebond II or an industrial grade sub-floor adhesive as your adhesive in order to make a bond between the two pieces of MDF that you are gluing together. Anything that doesn't bond the wood is bound to fail eventually.
- Use coarse thread drywall screws, 1-5/8" long, to hold the pieces tight together while the glue dries. Space these out every 6-8", and ALWAYS predrill with a skinny bit (3/64 - 7/64) in order to avoid splitting the MDF. These coarse thread screws can be found at Home Depot with an orange label on the box.
- Use pan head screws to mount the subs. Using the same drywall screws that you use to make the box can damage the mouting flange of the woofer since they don't have a flat spot on the underside of the head. Stick with the same coarse thread style as used in the box building.
- Have someone help you if this is your first time building a box; you'll both get some good building experience under your belt.
- Measure twice, cut once!
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